Getting A Taste For It: The Maori Gourmet's Approach to Cannibalism

It is well known that Maori practised cannibalism in both the pre-colonial and early colonial periods and that this was not just confined to Maori eating Maori. In the late 1890s, the historian R. A. A.Sherrin estimated that some one hundred pakeha (Europeans) were devoured between 1774 and 1804 with the number doubling between 1809 and 1840 with the greater availability of the food on offer.

Generally, the imported product turned out to be less appealing to the cultivated Maori palate than the local, tangata whenua version.

This was no doubt informed in part by the better physiological condition of the domestic variety. Captain James Cook had remarked in his journal that Maori were generally in better health and condition than their pakeha counterparts: they were taller, had better muscle tone, and were much less afflicted by diseases that had ravaged European populations such as smallpox and measles - that was yet to come.

Diet and healthy exercise would have contributed to this superior condition: fresh or well-preserved kai moana (sea food), kumara, greens, and the bounty of the forest in the form of birds, bats, and rats, with a touch of kauru to sweeten things up, rounded out the Maori diet. In comparison, Cook's pakeha sailors and the sealers, whalers, and runaway convicts that followed were fed a diet of salted pork and worm-infested ship's biscuit that was hardly the stuff on which pedigree stock are raised. It can have given no pleasure to the Maori gourmand to see his scurvy-ridden, vitamin C deficient, meal on-the-hoof. It was hardly sufficient to whet the appetite.

As to taste, Maori gourmands informed early visitors to New Zealand that they did not care for the saltiness of European flesh. That of "Negroes" tasted too much of tobacco. Perhaps too, overall conditioning was lacking in the pakeha product, reflecting their generally poor physical state which would have affected overall tenderness of the meat.

Given the generally disappointing condition of the imported product, many a pakeha who came into Maori hands dodged the knife and fork - or being picked up in the fingers.

Nevertheless, Edward Markham of Hokianga counseled as late as 1834 that:

"They say the Meat of a Mans leg and Thighs well boned, washed, and rolled is very delicious but Sailors the Gourmands pronounce to be too tough and Salt, and not so good as Mouries but still are eatable with a good appetite as Sauce and well done Potatoes."

Fortunately for the Maori gourmand, an abundant domestic supply of human flesh came onto the market in the early 1820s. Primed by a vigourous trade in muskets with pakehas paid for in potatoes, pork, and preserved moko mai - tattooed heads - an enterprising Maori entrepreneurial spirit tapped into a value-added, premium export market based on other people's meat. Inter-tribal war on a previously unheard of mass disassembly scale, in addition to settling old political scores, provided a steady supply of taurekareka - captives or slaves - to feed the booming export sector. Some taurekareka were eaten by their Maori captors while others of a higher export grade, in a selfless act of delayed gratification by their enslavers, were held for facial tattooing before beheading for the moko mai trade, yielding meat as a valuable protein by-product for local consumption.

Citation for Markham quote and numbers of pakeha devoured:

Trevor Bentley, Pakeha Maori, (Penguin Books NZ, 2 ed, 2007), p. 59.

Legal notice: As of 2009, and to the best of our knowledge, cannibalism is illegal in most jurisdictions and persons should not engage in the practice under almost any circumstances (unless stranded for months at sea or by plane crash in the Andes). A healthy historical interest in cannibalism is permissible in some jurisdictions where freedom of inquiry and speech are still protected.

Christchurch Past & Present #16 - Motorbus on High Street

High Street, Christchurch, NZ. circa 1908. postcard.

More past than present, a view of High Street looking northwest towards "the bottleneck" in the distance, the intersection of Colombo, High, and Hereford streets, just south of the Square. Cashel street runs across the foot of this postcard circa 1908.

The correspondent helpfully names significant features of the view, including the motor bus. In most early twentieth century views of Christchurch, trams feature prominently.

Perhaps the bus was an early experiment that was found wanting when it came to mass transit so the electric tram prevailed until their departure in the 1950s. The tram, of course, made a re-appearance in the central city as a tourist gimmick in recent decades and part of the Cashel street mall is currently being ripped up to extend the overpriced ride round the few central city blocks it traverses.

For a present day view of the scene pop over to Canterbury Heritage where the two views are presented together. Thanks to Canty Heritage for putting up a current view; I've only a recent view 90 degrees to the left down Cashel St.

Perretts Corner, Wellington, 2009

Perretts Corner Cafe on the site of Perrett's Chemist shop,
corner of Manners & Willis Street. All photos this page: copyright, Kuaka, 2009.

And so to Perrett's Corner, 2009.

Perrett's Corner - straight ahead.

The intersection has been transformed over the nearly 170 years since European paintings and photography began recording its image but it would still be recognizable to earlier Wellingtonians. They might well feel somewhat claustrophobic (of the outdoor variety) because of the vertical height to later buildings and the increase in both vehicle and pedestrian traffic. The glass mirror facades might also be off-putting. At least some of the earlier images may have a wide-angle effect to them giving a false impression of spaciousness.

Perrett's Corner, 2009

Pollen House is to the immediate left of the photographer, off camera. Across Willis Street likes Dukes Arcade on the site of the Duke of Edinburgh Hotel. Perrett's corner lies diagonally across the intersection from the camera position while the Hotel St George, now a residence hall of Victoria University, is at the right edge of the photo.

Perrett's Corner, looking up Manners St

with Willis Street running across the picture left to right, 2009

And so ends - or does it - this extended photo essay of one of Wellington's most well-known corners.

Duke of Edinburgh Hotel - Last Call - Perrett's Corner - Wellington - 1975

Duke of Edinburgh Hotel, corner of Willis and Manners Streets, 18 March 1975. The Roxy Theatre's arch entrance can be seen to the right of the Duke. Perrett's corner is offstage right across the street. Photo is taken with Hotel St George immediately to photographer's back.
Dominion Post collection, Alexander Turnbull Library

Last call for the Duke of Edingburgh hotel came in 1973 when it served its last round having provided beverages to Wellingtonians for over a century.

In 1975 when these pictures were taken, the building's days were numbered and it was replaced by a low rise, two storey shopping arcade of small retail stores. The name lingers on in part in the arcade's present name: Duke's Arcade.

Duke of Edinburgh Hotel, corner of Willis and Manners Streets, 9 July 1975
Dominion Post collection, Alexander Turnbull Library

Like rock group Splitz Enz - a handbill plastered over a Duke's window - the Duke of Edinburgh Hotel is no more. Perhaps these passerbys remember a time when they had a drink in the Edinburgh or, perhaps, they yearn for yet another shopping arcade.

Perrett's Corner, Wellington - 1960s

Perrett's Corner looking down Manners St, 4 October 1966
Dominion Post Collection, Alexander Turnbull Library

Traffic is not yet controlled by lights at Perrett's corner in this 1966 view, zebra crossings performing the task of getting pedestrians organised and slowing motorised transport.

The by now familiar electric trolley bus turns from Willis into Manners Street heading in an easterly direction. Perrett's is on the extreme far right of the intersection. The Duke of Edinburgh hotel with less than 7 years to go before "last round" is on the far left corner, the neon sign of the Roxy Theatre just past that (see previous post on the Roxy - successor to the Britannia).

Pollen House Moves Down The Hill - Perrett's Corner Wellington

Pollen House at the corner of Willis and Boulcott Streets.
Immediately behind the photographer lies Perrett's corner.
Wellington City Council Heritage site

Built in 1902, the Pollen House served as both home and surgery for Dr Henry Pollen a medical practitioner until his death in 1918.

Designed by architect Thomas Turnbull in a revivalist style, the Wellington City Council Heritage site describes the house as being:

"in a French Second Empire style which includes French Renaissance and Post-Renaissance decorative motifs, as well as elements of High Victorian Gothic. The building has no real equivalent in the Capital and the overall design is exceptional in its originality. The house is three stories high, with double-bay windows carried through two floors.... The Mansard roof, with a projecting turret, is another outstanding feature of the building, along with balconies on two levels."

"Stylistic links to Antrim House (1905) at 63 Boulcott Street are clear. Both were designed by Thomas Turnbull in the grand manner, employing French Renaissance motifs, turrets and Mansard roofs, and the imitation of stone elements in timber."

Originally located on a small triangular patch of land a few doors up the hill on Boulcott Street, in 1988 the house was moved down to the Willis Street - Boulcott Street corner, site of Victor Brownson's jewellry store in the 1930s, as part of the Majectic Tower Centre redevelopment. (See previous post for views of the construction site). While internal walls have been removed or relocated and other substantial internal alterations have been made, the dining room and 'best' bedroom remain relatively intact as spaces.

Today Pollen House serves as the premises for The General Practitioner, a restaurant and wine bar, with a street front patio which was populated with a lively lunchtime crowd when visited in January 2009.

After the Wrecking Ball Has Taken Its Toll - Majestic Theatre & Cabaret, Willis Street, Wellington 1988

Photo: William West. Circa 19 July 1988.

Dominion-Post collection, Alexander Turnbull Library

Gone But Not Forgotten - the Majestic Theatre and Cabaret have been leveled without a trace. The Hotel St George stands in the left background, surveying a wasteland while the beleaguered Pollen House stands alone behind the crane minus its arm.

Photo: John Nicholson. circa 3 August 1988.
Dominion-Post collection, Alexander Turnbull Library

Construction begins on the Majestic Centre complex, replacement to the art deco Majestic Theatre and Cabaret, Perrett's Corner is immediately behind the pile driver, the Hotel St George across the street to right, the Duke of Edinburgh Hotel on left corner has gone - demolished to make way for a low rise retail walk-through, while the Pollen House awaits its move.

Bearing the name only, the Majestic Centre, a $200 million office tower block, arises out of "the ashes". At 116 metres, it is currently Wellington's tallest building. At least the Preston building's facade (est. built 1910) is preserved. A small "at least".

The Majestic Centre. Photo taken 29 January 1991

Dominion-Post collection. Alexander Turnbull Library.